ATTENTION TO DETAIL

WHERE TO FIND GOD

I was tempted to quote Ludwig Mies van der Rohe here, but I know that both my former Emory architecture professor and the master himself would be upset, so I’ll refrain. But you get the picture.

Here are some of the many reasons why I love fashion: ornate beading, delicate folds, intricate textures, unexpected materials, and impeccable draping. When artists and couturiers are given the time, freedom, and bankroll to let their creativity run wild, the results are spectacular!

The surprising variety and combination of fabrics, textures and tones at Emilio Pucci’s Fall 2008 show was nothing short of spectacular. Witness (at right, detail photo from style.com) the interplay of chunky sky blue wool, ecru fur, and yellow plastic!

On Vera Wang’s fall runway, it was orange pom-poms. Delightmare! (I quote Michael Kors here, who may have coined the term, describing his love of the Rockettes' sequined costumes in an interview with W Magazine last year).

Andrew Gn’s beaded silk gunmetal-tone frock garnered enough attention to warrant its placement in the pre-fall collection at Neiman Marcus (waist detail pictured at right).

And check out this Castle Starr hammered silk blouse in a minty ice blue with bold black and ivory beads (at left, available at shopbop.com).

Even more delicious beading was to be found at the Jean Paul Galutier Spring 2008 Couture show in Paris, where gold studs lined the backs of the models’ stockings . . . delish!

Another sumptuous detail at Gaultier was this "fish scale" skirt suit. Exquisite!

At Gucci (photo at right via style.com), it was tassels as far as the eye could see, on everything from handbags to belts to (origin of the trend?) shoes.

But I’m saving the best for last. Are you not awestruck by this uber-skilled feat of craftsmanship at the Valentino Spring 2008 Couture (left)? I don’t know whether to wear these delicate flowers or frame them. And it should be noted that their capture on film owes to the genius photographers at style.com.

Dare to be detailed!

WHEREFORE ART?

ART HOUSE

[At right: Dutch abstract artist Piet Mondrian (1872-1944) in his studio, image via www. artmuseums.harvard.edu]

Fashion and art have always been joined at the hip (get it?), but never more so than on the recent runways.

For more scholarly commentary on this topic, Couture Carrie directs her readers to Couture Culture by Nancy J. Troy, a delicious and exquisitely-

researched tome on the complex relationship between modern art and fashion.

Now, for the stunning visual parallels between the dress and the artist's canvas: this dress by Giles for Fall 2008 is particularly reminiscent of a Lucio Fontana (1899-1968) slashed canvas painting (Runway photo at upper left courtesy style.com; Fontana photo from timemagazine.com).

We cannot help being reminded of Gustav Klimt’s The Kiss with Christian Dior’s orange floor-length coat. Fashion photo courtesy nymag.com/fashion.

Of course, there are also more self-conscious nods to the art world on the part of designers.

Since its inception in the 1960’s by Yves Saint Laurent (picture at left courtesy the Victoria and Albert Museum in London), the Mondrian dress has undergone various incarnations, including, most recently, Herve Legér’s Adeline square neck tank dress (at lower left, for purchase at The Intermix) and Diane Von Furstenberg’s shift in black, white, camel and royal, at right, available at Neiman Marcus.

The instantly recognizable geometric design has even

appeared on apparel as obscure and unlikely as knee socks This fanciful legwear, pictured at right, is currently on sale at anthropologie.com.

In sum, whether consciously intended or not, fashion designers cannot help but channel their visual art predecessors (and contemporaries!) when creating. Intertextuality has become intertextilality!

PRE-FALL (FOCUS: THE BLOUSE)

Nearly as exciting as viewing the fall collections themselves is surveying the pieces that the world’s finest clothiers select to populate their floors for the upcoming season. It must be a dizzyingly delicious chore to synthesize the runway craziness into a tame, refined collection of apparel that will titillate but not intimidate the Middle American Woman, who does the majority of her shopping on line, particularly if she wants to stay abreast of the season’s trends. Here’s are CoutureCarrie's top picks from the Neiman Marcus pre-fall selection, with a particular focus on a particular feminine fashion staple.


I can almost smell the eggnog already! This Oscar de la Renta ensemble is guaranteed to be the stunner at the office Christmas Party (I know, it’s barely Mother’s Day yet; so sue me if I want to be prepared!). What a perfectly edited choice from the collections: a cream silk organza blouse with accordion-pleated floral appliqués and jewel neckline is paired perfectly with a stunning Dip-Dye Silk Faille Skirt in cardinal red with black dip-dye and floral embroidery at hem. The high waist is accentuated with a black silk sponge covered-buckle crepe belt.


CoutureCarrie simply must take note of several other refreshingly sculpted and adorned blouses chosen by Neiman’s for its pre-fall feature. We'll proceed from most to least fabric . . .


This Stella McCartney pale pink ruffled silk top (at right) is the ideal, wispy piece to take you from the deck of your house on Shelter Island for that last summer bbq right to fall's first fab cocktail parties. Alluringly draped and showing just enough skin, this blouse is tres perf.


Just Cavalli's patterned chiffon blouse (left) in a unique diamond olive ombré print, with a sassy secretary tie at the neck, is going to suit us just fine this fall! Perfect under a little cardie or waist-cinching blazer.



Last, and with the least amount of material but perhaps the most universal appeal, given its beloved grape hue and waist-whittling silhouette, this Tuleh purple ruffled silk blouse (right) has just the right amount of plunge and punch.


One thing's for sure this fall: there's a blouse in the house!


All looks courtesy neimanmarcus.com

WHITE HOUSE

LILY OF THE VALLEY

In case you haven't heard, white is hot!

The most and greatest offerings in this category were to be found on the Givenchy Couture Spring 2008 runway. The craftsmanship was (as ever) impeccable, the forms delightful, and the designs refreshingly creative. The standout piece for me was this elegant asymmetrical inverted flower dress (at left), complete with bustling folds of silk that create three-dimensionality without bulk.

Note the white sandals (so often a tacky choice, made chic here by their heft yet delicacy). I also loved the white toeless buckled boot worn at the same show (at right).

For more incredible photos from the Givenchy show, all courtesy style.com, see the left hand column of CoutureCarrie!



This floor-length 3.1 Phillip Lim Waterfall Gown, much touted for its brilliant eco-friendly construction, is the ultimate in Grecian-inspired chic.



Fanciful, albeit questionably wearable, this Francesco Scognamiglio blouse puts white chiffon on display in an overt, costume-y way. I am eagerly anticipating more fanciful designs from this Italian newcomer.


For a more economical take on the white trend, try this embroidered shift dress with keyhole back, available at Forever 21 for around twenty dollars. White on!


Nathan Jenden’s Lilith peplum short sleeve jacket provides a bit of expert tailoring. And you can sport it without looking like a cater-waiter (which is a risk one always runs when donning a white jacket). Photo at right from net-a-porter.com.

BOW WOW!

BOWTIES . . . Not just for pasta and tuxedos anymore!

Ravishing ribbon details are omnipresent these days, as fashion goes girly. Beautiful bows abound on everything from coats to dresses to accessories.

Here’s a collection of the most beautiful bows on the recent runways . . .


At Valentino Couture, where femininity and glamour are always paramount, the bow took center stage quite literally, as it made a full frontal appearance on numerous gowns, both in the form of an elegant waist-cincher (right) and as a corset detail (left), in lovely pastel hues.

Exquisite detail photos courtesy style.com.


The accessories take a bow as well!

Behold this emerald green Christian Louboutin satin peep toe sling back (bergdorf goodman.com). What better way to showcase your gorgeous gams than with a glamorous great green pump, complete with a decorative bow tie to accentuate your toe cleavage?


These Valentino grosgrain booties, pictured at right and available at Bergdorf Goodman, illustrate that it isn't just satin that's kept "in the loop". The edginess of the black cut-out suede peep toe is offset by a dainty center ribbon.


And as for handbags, the bedecked options are limitless.

Dolce & Gabbana's patent bubble clutch (at left, for purchase at Neiman Marcus) has a bow, while Julie Brown's (at right, available at revolveclothing.com; also in black) is a bow!


Now tie a yellow ribbon 'round the old oak tree,
or at the very least, about your waist!

OUT OF POCKET

[Aside: I have a gal pal who uses the above phrase to describe being out of touch or flaking out - i.e., "sorry I've been out of pocket for so long . . ." - has anyone else heard of this?]

HOT POCKETS

No longer just for function, it seems, pockets are taking center stage on many designer creations! We've all heard of pocketed pants, jackets, even skirts - but gowns? Now that's a marsupial of a different color!

Jonathan Saunders created an arty look with the graphic gray and white patch pockets on this black shift dress (left). For purchase at intermixonline.com

J Mendel cleverly provided a luxurious armrest for the weary (yet stunning) model wearing this diaphanous dress (right). The effect of these oversize front pockets is less kangaroo and more fanciful bow tie. I think it is a lovely departure for such a traditional house; the playful pockets provide a nice counterpoint to the austerity of the strapless neckline.

At Diesel, wide side pockets on a skirted jumper added interest (but unflattering bulk, I daresay). J Mendel and Diesel photos via nymag.com/fashion.

The Jean Paul Gaultier Spring 2008 Couture Collection put the focus on details such as these fan pockets. This gorgeous detail image is courtesy of the amazing photographers at style.com, who capture the nuances of all the couture shows - merci!

STICK YOUR NECK OUT!

FABULOUS NECKLINES

Time to take a nape!

In all my years of near-religious devotion to fashion, I have never seen such inventive, gorgeous, utterly NEW necklines!

In spite of the instructive article I just read in W Magazine regarding the importance of being able to dress oneself without the aid of a personal corset-cincher (i.e., handmaiden), I ADORE the complicated look of this Spring 2008 creation for Preen. So what if it takes an IKEA-like nearly indecipherable diagram to get the straps and sashes just right? The effect is SO worth the added time and trouble. And the hunter green really flatters a tan! Note the nude sandals - right on!

This criss-cross keyhole look by Blumarine is titillatingly tempting. One of the champions of the lingerie look this season, Blumarine does not disappoint with this scandalously low-cut pale rose silk dress.

Andrew Gn has a more traditional take on deliciously displayed decolletage with this cap sleeve dress, made interesting by the ruched deep-v sweetheart neckline.

Get your double-sided tape ready for this Oscar de la Renta Spring 2008 Collection little black dress, with split front chiffon that is daringly cut nearly to the navel!

Lastly, a youthful and deconstructed look from VPL, available at shopbop.com. This is the kind of blouse that your boyfriend doesn't understand but your girlfriends covet. It is edgy, raw, sexy, and surreal. Behold, a shirt that takes asymmetry to the next level!

Photos from nymag.com except where otherwise noted.